In reflection of our walk on the Camino de Santiago...

Life is Simple on The Way of St. James

We have walked now an ancient way
The Apostle seemed to walk along side us
My doubts as to its purpose are in the past
Inner feelings are now simple yet exuberant

I left wondering if this was a wise choice
One never grows without failure or trial
So many hills, rocks, and pathways to climb
Life seems to reflect itself in every step

You have time to question your life’s pursuit
Sometimes the answers are not always kind
Yet some answers will validate your quest
Truth will always be the victor in the end

We complicate most of the simple things
Life should be like the transparency of a child
It is in age that we transgress from what we know
The Camino takes us back to what is important

Reflections are best done in quiet solitude
This millennium path gives you all of its best
The heart is never more joyful or alive or free
It is with understanding that you receive its wisdom

I was never really certain what led me here
It was just something that empowered me
I am just thankful for its lessons of affirmation
As Life is Simple on the Way of St. James

DAK 2010

Day 9 On the Camino- The Last Day on the Trail

The emotions of today are quite evident in all of our faces. No one is saying much, but we all know today will be something special. How could it not be? We have walked with our new friends from O Cebreiro and now we will all, as a band of brothers and sisters walk together this last day into the center of the Cathedral Square. We have become as one now. Our thoughts are many as we look back over the last nine days and reflect on the real meaning of our pilgrimage. It is all different for each of us, yet the same. Most of us have a tiny lump in our throats. We are thinking of not only our accomplishment of this trek, but also how this has changed our lives. We leave the confines of our Pazo this morning as we gather around the manor house's courtyard cross. I guess this is fitting, but also we found it had a clear wireless signal to update our messages, and for me to add another post in my electronic journal. We are greeted with the brightest of days and the sun will again warm us as we walk in the early morning. We still have some spring left in our walk, but more especially today we walk in victory. We find ourselves leaving Arca and this millennium old trail and walk into the 21st Century. The sounds of the airport are close by, but only for a moment we catch ourselves back in the present. The last picnic of our journey is in the small village of Lavacolla, and is on the steps leading to the village church. Grand stately trees from centuries past put a welcome cover for the intense sun. It is also the last day for our coach driver, Celso (pronounced Thelso in Spanish) who was always been there at the end of our day to load us back up and shuttle us to our nights lodging and to check us in twice per day to make sure we were all still accounted for. He spoke no English, but by this last day he also became a dear friend. We stop to regroup as our band of ten pauses at the Mount of Joy, we say a prayer in the little chapel of San Marcos, stamp our "Pilgrim's Passports" for the last time and begin our descent into Santiago. As we march towards the Cathedral, we pass Pilgrims washing up in the river just prior to our entrance into Santiago. We are now walking on modern streets and sidewalks for the rest of the way. The present day sights and sounds of a big city with all of its traffic and normal day functions bring us back to the reality of which we left over a week and a half ago. We search for the spires of the Cathedral as we walk, but they do not present themselves. The city is such that you walk in a continual downward path and through the ancient pathways on the old cobblestone streets, it saves itself until you can see her in all of her glory. Our last passage way goes through an ancient tunnel where a bag-piper greets you with the sounds of Old Santiago. This sound only adds to the emotional state we all feel at this time. As we break through into the Square we are in awe of this magnificent edifice. It appears as large as St. Peter's in Rome or maybe even a bit bigger from its frontal view. We head to the exact center of the square and with tears filling our eyes we hug now as a large family finally reaching home. This day becomes a thanksgiving of sorts as we have arrived safely, all of us, along with our tired and weary bones, bandaged toes, but joyous hearts. It reminds us not only that we have arrived here in one piece, but how truly thankful we are for what God has given us. Words can not describe this journey, only our faces as we all look at each other with the same respect. As we take our family pictures with the backdrop of the Cathedral, we see more and more pilgrims entering the Square to celebrate in their joy as well. It is indeed a moment we will always cherish. We now have to finish the business of the day and report to the Office of the Peregrino. Here we will present our "Pilgrims Passports", which we have so dutifully gotten stamped over the past nine days with 2-4 stamps per day to this office for inspection and questions. In years past the questioning was extreme, but now the interrogation is on a more friendly basis. We are given our Compostela, inscribed in Latin with our names proudly written thereon. It is a simple parchment, but proclaims to the world we have done it. Now we celebrate! Tonight we have our celebratory dinner with our two guides, Alex and Jason and partake in an ancient Galician Feast. The wine flows, the reflections of the past week are openly shared, and we all look forward to a peaceful nights sleep with no major walking in store for the following day. How good can life be! Tomorrow we will attend the Pilgrim's Mass at noon preceded by a tour of the Cathedral. We will visit the tomb of the Apostle and behind the High Altar through a small passageway we will be able to give a personal hug of thanksgiving to St. James as he looks out over the many pilgrims who sit in quiet contemplation. No one can feel this true joy unless they themselves walk the Camino de Santiago. I hope you have all enjoyed the story of our walk that the ten of us took part in. It has been my personal pleasure to share this with you, our friends, family, and our dear loved ones. So as we leave you it will always be, Buen Camino Dave, Judy, Dan, Leslie, Monica, Maureen, Gertraud, Gail, Dot, & Misa...and of course our trusted guides Alex and Jason.

Arzua to Pedrouzo Day 8 on the Camino

We leave our beautiful country manor house this morning around 9:00 to head back to Arzua to resume our walk. We always start the next day exactly where we leave off even when we stay a little off of the beaten path of the Camino. Our guides make certain we are fulfilling the full intent and rules of “The Way”, especially during the last 100 km. There are no shortcuts at this point and no one would ever wish at this point to not fulfill those requirements.

The day is simply the best of the last week. We are again greeted with the morning sun. It feels so good as it warms your back in the cool morning air. I think everyone knows we are getting close and the emotions are starting to run high. I know my thoughts have run through every facet of my life. The good, the sad, the happy, the memorable, the kids, the grand-kids, the friends both new and life long, and those you love and those who made a difference in your life. It seems the Camino makes you think how very fortunate you are and what a gift it has been to share in this experience. Every thought conjures up an emotional state. I don’t know what it is, but you now understand how great life truly is. It tells you what you already know, but now it just brings it to some kind of spiritual fruition.

We pass through three and four house villages and wonder how they ever began and why they still even exist. We pass several alberques and refugios (hostels) for the weary pilgrims to spend their last night or two in ,who are also contemplating what soon lies ahead. The pilgrims are now much more in number, and you again pass by those you have met over the past days and begin to know bits and pieces of their story as well. Even that emotion stirs you more now because you all feel the same solidarity. You also question yourself why this particular experience has now captured your soul and your being. I suppose it’s just the magic of the Camino and what it does to each person. It is hard to put into any words that make any real sense.

We travel about 10 miles and are treated again by our guides to another of their gourmet picnic lunches consisting of a fresh fruit medley, a blue cheese, pear and walnut salad, local cheeses, a Galician type of salami, a wonderful pate on a simple bread cracker and of course a white Albarino wine.. This gets better and better. Why would you not want to do the Camino with this group with these wonderful little touches.

This evening we are transported to the Pazo De Andeade, a palace built in the eighteenth century by a Galician Nobleman and one which has been in the same family for 15 generations. The grounds are exquisite, stately, completely restored in 1995, and hosts a multitude of amenities such as a restaurant, a lounge, a library, its own chapel, outdoor sitting areas, and the private residence of the ancestral family. We are privileged to be domiciled in this natural, cultural, and architectural masterpiece. I will add pictures of this in the near future for you to enjoy as well.

Dinner was again a culinary work of art prepared and served by descendants of the original family. We were also treated to a mini concert by a quartet of Spanish musicians playing the Music of the Camino. Awesome!!!

Tomorrow we prepare for our final walk of 12 miles or 20 km. I am sure it is going to be a very tough day in many regards. I hope to share with you that last days walk (tomorrow) and our triumphant entrance into Santiago. I now must prepare for that walk by getting some much needed rest.

Buenos Noches and Buen Camino…
Dave and Judy

Melide to Arzua Day 7 of the Camino

We awaken with the sunshine today. This is indeed something unique this past week. I wondered now how do we dress. The Galician countryside during April has a fickle mind of its own when it comes to weather. But today is a treat and maybe we will get a perfect day after all. So we don the shorts and a light weight T-shirt, but never leave home without your rain pants, jacket, back pack cover, hat, and poncho…just to be safe. You somehow get used to the extra weight on your back and become again like all the other pilgrims putting one step in front of the other and walking with a smile and a purpose.

The Camino is starting to get more crowded as we are now only 45 km (32 miles) from the Cathedral. I think the weekend has added more travelers, as their clothes seem to be nice and clean and no major mud around their boots and other clothing to distinguish them from those who have come much further. Each person determines just how far they think they can walk, depending on time and circumstances. We fit the middle of the pack, but there are others and quite a few actually, who have walked from St. Jean Pied de Port France which when completed will have walked the entire French route which is approximately 764 km or nearly 500 miles. They are the ones I salute for such an incredible sacrifice of time and energy. I believe that our 160 km is about enough for those in their right mind. It does make you wonder however, if you could really pull off the entire Camino de Santiago.

We leave the big city of Melide after we watch the locals setup for their annual festival. We watch the bag- pipers practice their art and their melodious sounds ring out near the Church of the Holy Spirit…it just seems to go along with our mission and makes us start down that first hill with a spring in our step. We traverse mainly small country roads, wooded foot paths, and small streams with stone bridges I am sure were built by pilgrims from centuries past. We walk through the small hamlet of Boente and see the tiny Church of Santiago. I think every village, even those with four or five homes has a church within its boundaries. I think back to a time when most likely there was no shortage of priests and all had a resident pastor to tend to their needs.

We come upon the city of Arzua following another gourmet picnic lunch prepared by our guide Alex and consisting of a wonderful salad, olives, sliced pork, sardines, strawberries, homemade cheese from the local village and of course cookies and cake. And how could you do a Galician picnic without a glass of the local Albarino blanco vino (white wine). I can only say that I am glad we are walking some of these calories off.

I forgot to mention that our typical day begins with a small breakfast around 8:30 usually consisting of cereal, ham and cheese (home made of course), toast, bread, juice, coffee or tea. Lunch is usually around 2:30 as a rule and is usually a stop in a local village or a picnic prepared by our guides, with dinner at 8:30 and always a feast , and always prepared with local ingredients. It all seems to run about two hours later than we do things in America, so that was a little strange at first, but after a week or so you get used to it.

Tomorrow is Sunday and we will walk 11 miles or 19 km and we will again stay at another Galician Pazo (Palace)
which has been in the same family for fifteen generations. Check out the previous post for the link for the web cam in Santiago. Hopefully you will see us on Monday around 9:30 AM ET.

So again it’s…
Buen Camino

Dave and Judy

Camino Entrance on the Web Cam on Monday at 9:30 AM

Hello All,
Hopefully these links will get you to our grand entrance into Santiago on Monday. I will be wearing the official "RED SHIRT" so look for us. You might see a Fresco Tours T Shirt too. Hope it works. Hope you are enjoying the blog. Thanks for looking in on us. We Love You All.
Dave and Judy

Here is the link to the webcam of the Plaza de Obradorio in Santiago!
http://www.crtvg.es/cgi-bin/camweb/camaras.asp?id=7&idioma=espanol

I guestimate that we will arrive on Monday afternoon around 3:30PM or 9:30 Eastern Time



Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/frescotours

Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/frescotours

Twitter: http://twitter.com/fresco_tours

Almost there!

Saludos,
Dave and Judy Kinder
Led By Our Official Tour Group
Fresco Tours
Bilbao, Spain
www.frescotours.com

Lestedo to Melide Day 6 of the Camino

We now leave Lestedo with renewed energy and purpose. I think most of the bugs have been worked out and the leg pains have subsided to a very tolerable level. Due to the pain and weariness from the daily grind , I decided that the mantra should be “There is NO Crying on the Camino”, as taken from the Tom Hanks movie about women in baseball during World War II…or at least until we arrive in Santiago. Then the tears of gratitude could flow unintentionally from this accomplishment of purpose.

Our journey takes us through the city of Palais de Rei. Little has changed over the centuries in this little corner of Spain. We see farmers with their cows as they plod down stone streets. Everyone seems to be at peace with life. Their fathers and forefathers before them had lived pretty much similar lives. At times the trail gets a little mundane, but at that point a new waterfall, or a new landscape of green hills and farms owned by the same Galician family for 15 or 20 generations appears as if on cue and taken from the palate of the Grand Architect of the Universe. And then just as quickly, we find slippery footpaths covered with mud and uneven rock and shale, or maybe a torrential down pour of rain and hail. Sometimes the trail becomes unknown and a bit of anxiety runs through you and now a new concern becomes attached to your being. These sights appear again and again, yet seem to put a smile on our faces, as we realize what life is all about. It appears, after all that the trail does mirror life itself, and just as we become comfortable and satisfied with life, out of nowhere we are given a new perspective.

We finally arrive in Melide which is a modern city while keeping a touch of the past running through her veins. Life, it appears seems to be the same now as it does back home. But just as we move to the 21st Century, we are again transported back to another era in time. Our home away from home tonight is found in a Galician country manor house dating from the 16th century. It is called the Pazo de Eidian and was built on land once owned by the Knights Templar, and from whose time only the chapel remains. The premises are totally enclosed by a stone wall and encompasses around 15000 square meters. The palace has been restored with period furniture and is most definitely a diamond in the rough. The original coat of arms is still engraved in stone as you pass through its portals and become part of the Lopez de Basadre Family for two nights.

I feel I must add to this… just in case you think we are totally roughing it (and we are at times), the Palace Eidian does also have a pool, a spa, a masseuse (who is now coming back to America with me), a restaurant serving authentic Galician faire, 12 beautiful rooms with again hot showers to die for, a gathering room, and a walled courtyard to enjoy Galica’s finest white wine called Albarino in. Maybe I should have left that part out.

So tomorrow we transport back to Melide and trek on to Arzura. Yes, we are getting closer and continue to fill our “Pilgrims Passports” with stamps from many villages, churches, and restaurants as we inch closer to Santiago and the tomb of St. James. This will be our shortest day which only involves 9 miles and at this point a piece of cake. Did someone mention Tarta de Santiago? OMG…unbelieveable!

We found out that there is a web cam in Santiago that films the pilgrims as they enter the City Square, so hopefully we will have that web site for you to check out as we march in on Monday afternoon around 4:00 PM, which is 10:00 AM in Indiana (ET), and 8:00 AM on the Pacific Coast. Stay tuned for updates on that.

Buen Camino
Dave and Judy

Portomarin to Lestedo Day 5 of the Camino

The wet weather clothes were all brought out today. A sea of ponchos, rain pants, and hats dotted the entire trail today. This seemed to be the wettest of days so far. The pilgrims seem to increase as we get closer to Santiago. After today we will have traveled 87 km or approximately 51 miles. We are now half way home. The days are starting to become easier for some and yet harder for others. Our group consists of ten pilgrims. We are 8 women and 2 men, along with our two trusty guides Alex and Jason. Our ages are approximately 28 to 72. Everyone still marches on with conviction and staunch determination to hold in their hands this Compostela which written in Latin proclaims to the world they have succeeded in their Camino. At this point, there is no turning back, no doubts, no second thoughts…well maybe a little wondering of “and tell me again, why am I here?”. Twelve miles today seems easier than yesterday. The sun did make its appearance during our late morning break and rain gear was shed and bare legs and T-shirts again presented itself to the trail. Many common faces appear all throughout the day. You start to know some of their story as well. Even with the language barrier the messages seem to come across. One lady is meeting her sister in Santiago along with the entire family to celebrate her wedding. She even picked some fresh evergreen as a simple gift commemorating her sacrifice and remembrance of this special time. Tonight’s dinner will again be a feast. Buen Camino

The Pain in Spain stays mainly in the Legs on Day 4 of the Camino

It was pretty awesome last evening when the Monastery’s Abbot gave us the Pilgrim’s Blessing. As you look around and see your fellow pilgrims from all over the world, all here for their own personal reasons, but yet all here for a single common reason-a safe passage to Santiago. The eyes of each pilgrim tell a story, some with excruciating pain, some still with a smile of gratitude, some with tears as they get closer to their goal. It becomes a little overwhelming as we huddle, most of us strangers until a short time ago, but now bound by a commraderie of purpose. It gave us a new power for Day 4 that we all now needed.

We began our day under a steady rain which would continue on and off most of the day. The scenery is still uncompromisingly beautiful and stunning each day. The trail today was a design only the ancients could paint. We climbed pathways which were like mini waterfalls with stepping stones for each advancing step. There was a good share of rock and stone paths, but as the rain pelted down, it also became in places a trail of packed mush of red dirt and clay. The villages have weathered the pilgrims for centuries and the people still wave and say “hola” (hi) as the thousands pass by their humble abodes. The pilgrims all walk with a purpose, however not without a grimace now and then from the aches, and blisters, and sore backs from wearing their backpacks which have become just an extension of their bodies.

Did this day bring out all of iniquities of life itself, or did it manifest itself as the exact opposite? We all felt a sense of gratitude for this opportunity. I think all of us now realized a sense of oneness with those who traveled along side, as well as those who came before. It also made us realize how fortunate we are to be able to traverse such an ancient trail as this, and carry with us those deep innermost feelings of why we came. The Way now begins to break each of us down and a certain metamorphosis of new life begins.

After trekking 13 miles of every imaginable trail and following a deep descent down a winding roadway we came into the view of the Village of Portomarin, where one could see the 12th Century Church of San Juan which looked like a mighty fortress perched high above the river. It has stood guard over the River Mino for nine centuries. But as all days end we file in one at a time over the next thirty minutes or so and gather at the local watering hole for a job well done and enjoy that daily reward of a cerveza or a glass of vino.

We were then transferred to our accommodations in Lestedo near Palais de Rei where we were greeted by a beautiful edifice, which was in centuries past the domicile of the local priest. What a beautiful casa with wonderful hosts who fed us a sumptuous feast of many of the local delicacies including octopus, chicken, salad, bread, wine and of course dessert. The most popular always seems be the Tarte de Santiago dessert. At least our guide Jason seems to think so and even has his own rating system for this tasty little moist sin of Galicia.

Buen Camino for now…
Dave and Judy

Still Marching On

We are still marching on but with limited access. I hope to have the blog up and running again soon. All is well and we will walk into Santiago on Monday evening. I have more stories, if I can get than transferred over from Word. I am also computer challenged in this country...so bear with me.
Love you all
Dave and judy

Triacastela to Sarria or Day 3 of the Camino

Well boys and girls we are still marching on. We did about 19 km (11 miles) today and are still able to walk without too much pain and surprisingly, we have no blisters yet-yea!Today we felt that this was our critical pain evaluation day. If we were going to feel bad it would be today. A few of our fellow travelers have managed to get those nasty blisters, sore knees, shint splints, and some back aches. I knew this was a manifestation day for pain. They were all troopers however and made it back in one piece, albeit a little sore. This morning we were transferred back to Triacastela to begin where we left off yesterday afternoon. The handiest thing... having a van follow you from time to time, check on you, bring you extra water, let you drop off things, pick up things, or just be able sit in the van for a couple of minutes during our twice a day check points with our fearless leaders-Alex and Jason. We are blessed to have two of the most talented, fun, laid back, and all around fun guides to have lead you through this unknown maze of an ancient pathway which lies directly under the Milky Way Galaxy. I know I am folowing in the same steps as Charlemagne, Chaucer, Queen Isabella, King Ferdinand, The Templar Knights, and even Shirley MacLaine. She was the original catalyst for bringing us to this sacred trail through her book "The Camino". We just opted for a little easier way of doing it. I call it the "Country Club Camino", but still not a walk in the park either. We truly are having a wonderful experience. Today was just magnificent with blue skies, a nice breeze, 60 deree temperature, and best of all no rain. We did get to walk today through a scenic, yet treacherous at times pathway which meandered through creek beds and small villages. Todays path had a split that you could take in two different ways. One took you through San Xil where the views were spectacular, while the other trail passed by the ancient monastery of Samos along the river valley. We opted for the first one because of the beauty of the walk and its diversity of the different trails. So as a special gift, our guides are taking us back to Samos this evening with the van where we will tour this ancient edifice, stay for Vespers with the Monks, and then be with them as they say the evenng Mass. If you have never heard monks chant the vespers, it is definitely a very awesome and inspiring experience. Following our monastery tour and vespers we will be breaking bread with our fellow travelers. This will involve again a culinary experience that has been worth the trip in itself. The Spanish wines are also a delicacy with no hangovers following the next morning. Tomorrow we begin our longest day where we travel from Sarria to Lestedo which covers 22 km (13 miles). This day we will cross the 100 km marker which is the official milestone where all pilgrims must now walk from, to receive the official "Compostela" from the Cathedral in Santiago. At this point, I will crawl across the finish line in the town square if I have to. In commeration of our walk, and because of our earlier trials, I will be wearing my official "red shirt" into Santiago. I rewashed it again last night, and will retire it until our triumphant walk into this great city. Again, we love you all for joining us on our journey. Please feel free to add your comments on our blog, if you feel so inclined. Judy's painted toes with the scallop shell on them is now officially on the tour's website picture page under "toe-tally Camino". So we now have that going for us! Take much care and Buen Camino. Dave and Judy

O Cebreiro to Triacastela

We leave our history book hamlet, but not before we buy a couple of walking sticks. After the first day of fighting the slippery rocks, I decided that before we break our necks, legs or arms, we best follow the lead of the seasoned peregrinos (pilgrims) and look like we know what we are doing. So today we will see what 20 km (12 miles) feels like. The day is promising and appears we may get no rain, a nice breeze, and a few peaks of the sun. We ended up getting all that was promised, along with view of hills and valleys that were taken from an Ireland travel brochure. We walked through several small villages that appeared almost deserted, but always coming upon a place for pilgrims to get a drink, a snack, a cold pop, or even an ice cold beer. I figured I better stay with the water until at least lunch, or better yet maybe at the end of the days hike...NOT... the beer at lunch was superb, ice cold, and did hit the spot. Lunch was a picnic prepared by Jason who is one of our guides. A culinary wizard who makes soups and salads which are of Spanish origin and ones that force you to a second helping. Did I tell you that the local cheeses are also a work of art and are served with every meal of the day. The luggage has still not arrived, but with fingers crossed, our hope is that when we arrive tonight in Sarria that we will welcome these 2 gorgeous bags. My red shirt now has made it 4 days, complete with an evening hand wash in the shower. I have begun not to really care if it makes it or not, and besides our group would not recognize me now if I was dressed any differently. I guess all of our pre-Camino walks have paid off. The fact that we started to get ready for this adventure a couple of months ago has sure kept things manageable. So far we have no blisters, which is good since all of our band-aids, moleskin, and blister kits are in the suitcase. The temperature today reached about 60 degrees, so what a day! The pilgrims this year will most likely set a new record for numbers. The estimates are from 250-500,000 people will walk this route that began over a thousand years ago. I forgot to tell you that as we pass through all of these small villages we have our "Pilgrims Passport" stamped at the refugios, bars, restaurants, and churches in order to prove to the good people in Santiago that we did indeed accomplish this feat. The requirements are that one must get 2-3 stamps a day and walk the last 100 km. We will be walking 160 km, so we will more than qualify. We then get an "Official Compostela" from the Cathedral in Santiago with our names officially inscribed in Latin attesting to our feat. We arrived in Triacastela around 4:30 this afternoon. We all stopped at the Rio Bar for a cold beer and a well deserved rest before heading to our hotel in Sarria. We will use this hotel for two nights and then be transferred back tomorrow to begin where we left off. It is nice having our support van and being able to stay 2 nights without repacking all of our gear. We were welcomed at the hotel with news that the bags have indeed arrived. We can't wait to put on some clean clothes and not be forced to wash what we wear each day. You know it's just the little things that make you happy....Hooray!!! Tomorrow we will do about 18 km (11 miles) or so and then this will tell us who is tough and who is not. I just hope I am not the one who breaks down and has to ride in the short bus. Having a great time...Buen Camino and Buenos Noches for now. Dave and Judy

First day on the Camino-On to O Cebreiro

Well, we officially started our walk on the Camino. We began on a somewhat short but very steep uphill climb which was to just get our legs stretched and tuned up and to see if our hearts could handle altitude, loose rocks, mud, and rain. I found very quickly that when going up a 35-40 degree incline over rocky terrain that talking is bascially not on the agenda. Breathing is! I kept hoping that all 100 miles wasn't going to be like todays afternoon walk. Are you kidding me?

The sun kept peeking out, then rain, then of course a rainbow. I said this must be our sign that this was going to be OK, and that maybe this was all meant to be. Oh, I forgot to mention that horses also use this same trail and they also make quite a mess when you are only working with a 4-6 foot path. So, again 100 miles of this? We will see.

Our objective this day was to reach the hamlet of O Cebreiro that was situated at the top of this rocky pathway. How completely awesome was this tiny village! It had probably been around since the Crusades or even earlier. I believe the buildings, shops, hostels, church, and our little bungalow that we would stay in over night was right out of a history book. At least the interiors have been updated to modern standards but you felt you were transported to another era in time. Folklore, also has it that the Knights Templar had hidden the Holy Grail here in this hamlet.

A very unique Eucharist Miracle also took place here in 1300. The story goes that the village priest, who had some doubts about the True Presence, was about saying the Mass during an incredible snow storm. As the priest began the Consecration, a pilgrim burst in and was immediately chastised by the priest reasoning that his only reason for coming, was to receive a small bit of wine and a piece of bread. At this particular moment the bread and wine was transformed completely in the chalice to the true body and blood of Christ. This is still preserved today and was placed in a jeweled chalice, that was provided by Queen Isabella of Spain upon her arrival in O Cebreiro during her pilgrimage while walking the Camino de Santiago.

So even though our first official day was short on the trail, the history of this place was well worth the stop. It definitely cast some kind of spell on you and started preparing you for the following days journey when we would travel to Tricastela and then on to Sarria to stay overnight.

We still have no luggage, but still keeping our spirits up, laughing at our dilemma, and eating incredible home cooked meals. We will probably weigh more when we arrive in Santiago than when we started.
Buen Camino

The Camino Will Provide

It's now Saturday night in Leon. To reflect on the day we had a beautiful morning with bright sunshine, along with rain and hail in the afternoon. We also found out that our luggage is still in Madrid...they think...and since there are no flights to Leon from Madrid on Saturday, and why would there be, and the next and only flight will be on Sunday at 9:35 PM arriving in Leon at 10:30. Great, but we leave hiking for O'Cebrerio at 2:30 PM...darn just going to miss again. So hopefully Monday while we hike to Sarria (12 miles), we might have some clean clothes when we arrive in the late afternoon. But not going to count on that...duh!

So, breaking out the Viza card, we bought Judy some new boots and a sweatshirt, you know this boot thing is getting expensive, as we both brought 2 pairs each, and of course they're packed with the luggage. I fortunately have one pair that I wore from Turin, so saved 150.00 by only having to buy one pair. Had to get a new T-shirt, as my current and only shirt is starting to stand up by itself. Our room currently looks like a Chinese Laundry. At least there are radiators to hang your clothes on to dry. (Hi- Joe Joe)

Oh, we tried the restaurant thing again today, but in Spanish. You think you know a few words until they talk to you at warp speed. Well, it's back to pointing and grunting. The best Spanish phrase is "Dos Cerveza" which is 2 beers, and I know them proficiently now. By the way they are served very cold here, but only 10 oz size, but very tasty (Hello to my G-Dockers-you would be proud).
So we are now having lots of fun. I think that is what the brochure said. Another big buy today was a can of deordant. I may be going on the trail, but I have to be able to stand myself.

We hope tomorrow is brighter, but definitely getting the comic relief I promised to ourselves and hoping you are laughing along with us. We hope tomorrow we have some pictures to post and some good news from the trail. So Buen Camino for now.
Dave and Judy

Leon Spain or Bust

We hope you are enjoying our blog posts as we move into position to begin our walk. They say walking the Camino takes you back to a new beginning with a new mind set of what is really important in life. A gradual cleaning of the clutter in the system is good from time to time...but...we seem to be given new challenges at each tick of the clock.

1. It appeared we were the only Americans in Turin and that Italian would have been a good second language, as no one seems to understand English in this city of 800,000 people...who would have thought.

2. It took 4 restaurants to finally understand we just wanted to sit and have lunch and grunting and pointing did not accomplish our desired results, but nonetheless we did find some pasta and a cold beer (Hi Brian and Frank) in our final attempt at some nourishment.

3. Landing back in Madrid before our flight to Leon with only 5 minutes to spare was cutting it close, but hey we made it.

4. Opps...the luggage seems to be in some unknown city and not with us. So this is what they call back to the basics. No clothes, tolietries, hiking boots etc. So this is how the original pilgrims did this...huh? This could be roughing it, but we have the official "plastic", so may have to start again with replenishing the supplies.

5. Volcano of the century blanketing Europe with ash...so we may have a new home following our trek or we may have to take a boat back to America. I always did like a challenge in my travels.

6. They say 60% chance of rain the next six days...what's a little water for a thirsty pilgrim...are you kidding me??? Oh yeah no boots, only sandals...the Franciscan life may become our way of life too. God will provide-right?

7. But wow...Leon is a very cool city and we still have about 30 hours for the luggage to arrive...so faith becomes the key word here.

Hang in there with us...we will be strong...sniff sniff.

Dave and Judy

P.S. Judy just lost one of her contact lens...it keeps getting better

Arrival in Europe and Turin

We left Indy on Wednesday for our overnight flight to Madrid. I forgot how nice some of the Atlantic crossing flights can be. We had first class service with Iberia...I know most of you have never heard of them, but well worth it when flying to Spain. Their reclining seats are wonderful, as well as the meal service. We arrived in Turin on Thursday morning just ahead of the volcano in Iceland, which has just about shut down half of Europe. Fortunately, we are below most of the ash and they are giving us the green light back to Spain this afternoon.

Well, having a 3:00 reservation to see the Shroud means little when there is 10,000 people standing in a line that wrapped around half of the City Center in Turin. We finally did make it to the inside of the Cathedral and was able to view the Shroud for about 10-15 minutes. It is quite a remarkable sight when you see it first hand. It does leave little doubt in my mind as to its authenticity. They previewed our reservation with a short video and displayed the shroud in its actual size. They analyzed every facet, mark, blood stain, tear,and burn mark that was visible and some not so visible that was on this piece of linen. The reverse negative was the astounding part, which really let you see the real definition of the face and the wounds.

So, hopefully this evening we will be back in Spain and headed to Madrid and then to Leon to begin our trek of the Camino de Santiago. So for now it's Buen Camino!
Dave and Judy

24 Hour Countdown to Departure

Well, we are now just 24 hours away from our departure to Europe. Our first stop on our way to the Camino de Santiago will be in Turin, Italy. If you recall the Winter Olympics were held there in 2006 and was referred to as Torino. Our decision to stop by this magical city is to view the Shroud of Turin, housed in St. John the Baptist Cathedral, and believed by many to be the burial cloth of Christ. It is an amazing sight made of linen, measuring 14 feet, 7 inches wide and bears the distinct image of a crucified man. We have the good fortune to be able to witness this phenomenon while on this journey as the Shroud has been displayed only six times in the last century. The next scheduled exposition will be in 2025.

The tests to authenticate the Shroud have so far proven to be inconclusive due to several factors and additional testings has been proposed, but there are several strong indications that it is the authentic burial cloth of Jesus. Of course, as the old saying goes, "for those who believe, no proof is necessary; for those who do not believe, no proof is sufficient".

I figured this was a good place to begin our pilgrimage, and since we were in the neighborhood, why not. Perhaps this will give us that needed energy boost to fulfill the rest of the journey.

The Poetry of the Camino

My poetry has deep roots, as I have been writing for over thirty years. I seem to reprise my thoughts of past and present and now the future as I prepare for our journey. Enjoy...DAK

Walk with Me

My thoughts now are of the Way of St. James
The Camino is anxiously awaiting my quest
I will soon become one with my inner thoughts
Solitude will now become joined with stamina

The ancients needed this fulfillment to live
To become one with yourself is now my cause
The reasons are now many yet also unknown
Answers to life may now become evident

Being alone with many is a personal desire
The gods will soon overtake all of my senses
The absence of what we know will become clear
Stripping your mind of all anxiety is new life

The Field of the Sky is yearning for me
The shadow of the Milky Way protects my walk
I have opened my mind for a new beginning
I am now a child again learning new ways

I await this spiritual journey with trepidation
My body will soon connect with my soul
My chakras will receive new direction and life
The journey will now live within me forever

The Camino de Santiago

We would like to welcome you to our blog regarding our upcoming trip to Spain. Judy and I will be walking the Camino de Santiago, a trail which stretches approximately 500 miles in its entirety, but we are opting for a more reasonable trek of 160 km or about 100 miles. We will be departing from a city in northern Spain called Leon and hopefully reaching our final destination city of Santiago in about 10 days. It is truly a leap of Faith thinking we can accomplish this endeavour, but since pilgrims have been doing this for over 1000 years I am sure with your thoughts, prayers, and best wishes we can pull this off.

We are hoping to update this as frequently as we can depending on the availability of a good wireless signal each day of our journey. We have been preparing for this now for the last couple of months, not knowing if we could pull the trigger on such a bizarre item found on our "Bucket List", but we finally committed to this and have been trying to accumulate all that goes with a trip such as this. We now have our packs, blister kits, moleskin, water bottles, ponchos, updated passports, hiking attire, and most especially our hiking boots. We are hoping to have approximately 100 miles on these life support units before we leave. We have been told that they will become our best friends. I am beginning to believe this statement already.

So stay tuned to our wonderful adventure and hopefully we can share this trip with you as well. With only our best wishes, we carry with us your thoughts and prayers to the Cathedral of St. James in Santiago. So it's Buen Camino for now.

Dave and Judy